Last day along the Donau -- to Vilshofen - 12 Mai

We broke camp at Straubing and left for Vilshofen--our last city along the Donau and also home, possibly (or so a ships manifest might suggest), for a time to Alaine's great-great grandmother, Katrina (Hofbauer) Biermeier. The morning was pretty warm and only got more so as we cycled along.

A narrow single track to stay within view of the river instead of cyclimg the road.

After stopping for lunch at the second only biergarten we've visited so far (quiet on a Tuesday, but super sunny) we came out to what we hope will be our last flat.

Just across from the center of Vilshofen we ended up at a marina maintained by a yacht club where they offered very economical (5 euros!) Donau-side camping--probably the nicest situatuon we've had, plus reasonably priced beer and wine, not to mention genuine friendliness to Alaine's spattering of German. They even told us we were welcome to their firepit complete with a bench and a pile of dry wood. 

We rehydrated and then cycled across the river to pick up some things for the evening.

Cycleweg...bierweg...

Our tent is the little yellow spot in the distance, right by the river.

A truly great setting for our last night camping.

Tomorrow it's time to begin exploring places of Alaine's mother's side of the family, as well as re-meet her German cousins, aunt and uncle, as well as not-before-met nieces and nephews.

Straubing by way of Walhalla - 11 Mai

Today's ride included one big, self imposed, hill. We wanted to see Walhalla, which happend to be commissioned by the same king--Ludwig I--and designed by the same architecht--Leo von Klenze--as Hall of Liberation--the monument we visited with Sigrid and Martina a couple days ago in Kelheim.

While Norse mythology Valhalla is for warriors, this Walhalla is not only for warriors but also for scientists, writers, and religious leaders, and includes women.  Regardless of occupation or sex, you have to have done something great for the German people to be honored here. 

We poked our heads inside for a quick look but stayed outside for lunch with a view.

This was the first sight of a working barge in the Donau that we'd had--one that we were certain we were racing-- and beat--all the way to Straubing.

Afterwards we came across this little guy--ahead at first in the trail. I thought the cyclist ahead of us aways had maybe dropped something at first. And then we realized what it was--and figured he was not native or anywhere close to where he belonged. 

I think he wanted us to take him home. 

When we explained we wouldn't be home for some time he decided to take his chances and hopped off down the trail.

Dipping swan...

No shots of our neighbors, but our campground in Straubing was relatively packed--2 solo male cyclists, one other touring couple, and a group of young guys (transported by jeep). No more being the only cyclists on the trails or paths or campgrounds! We snagged a free  picnic table 50 meters away (not in the tent area...typical for European camping) for setting out our dinner as well as our breakfast and for the morning sun before leaving the next morning for our final night of camping on the trip.

Regensburg - 10 Mai

A short and swift (love the tailwinds!) and sunny day of riding from Kelheim with energetic Martina and Sigrid meant not a lot of time to stop for photos en route, unfortunately, but for a good amount of time to explore a bit of the city of Regensburg, where Martina is currently living and studying medicine. She was our very charming, funny, and gracious host for the night.

We walked to the "old" town, which is a World Heritage Site, and explored the streets seeing the local Dom (Cathedral), of course, and the remains of the old Roman walls. Unfortunately half of the old Roman bridge spanning the Donau was undergoing repairs and shrouded by scaffolding and cover,  but we were still able to walk half of it while being serenaded by buskers. 

The "floating" organ.

Porta Praetoria and the remains of the old Roman wall. Sigrid had done a tour of the city at one point so she was able to share a lot of what she'd learned.

Bronze miniature of the city and its 1,500 buildings.

The famous, original Roman bridge, where Alaine and another cousin, Monika, walked 25 years ago.Two years  ago, there was a massive flood and everyone sitting here at the historic Wurstküche (sausage kitchen, with smokey cooking aromas piping out all day) would have been under water. The Wurstküche has been flooded several times through the centuries but continues on, adding another highwater mark to its wall.

Historische Wurstküche.

Highwater marks of 1893 (left) and 2013 (right).

The view from up on the bridge.

Martina had all the ingredients for a couple different delicious pizzas, and after, we all got back on our bikes to ride to a favorite pub of hers for a nightcap and a refreshing coast through the festive streets of nightime Regensburg. Sigrid, who lives with her family in Aidenbach, stayed with us as well, as she was taking the train early the next morning for Munich, where she works a few days a week.