18 April 2015

Italian greetings

Outside of Bassano de Grappa


On the Brente River between Treviso and  Trento -24 Aprile--AB Waterworks... Or something like

On a section of the Po River trail...

Someone must have known I was heading this way as I celebrate my year being the number 

Someone must have known we'd pass under this highway.


Ferrara to Porto Tolle, 18 April

After Nona Lidia...

The canal leading into Farrara. While pretty, it was our first exposure to a heavy bug population--felt like sharp bits flicking at our faces and arms--due to the trees and their proximity to the canal, I think-- and made us glad we were not any later in the season.

Rest stop in downtown Ferrara. 


There was a certain Bellingham-esque quality to our hosts in Farrara. Rudy, who besides being an architect is also a kick-ass pizza maker as well as runner, and his partner, Elise, works in independent cinema--currently on the trade of roses in Holland that are grown in, and vital to, the economies of Kenya and Ethiopia. Like I said, Hamsters (for our new friends... that's colloquialism for Bellingham types) of the Italian variety.


Our first "Italian" pizza--peppers, eggplant, anchovies, cheese--it was worth the wait.


Again, like many of the friends we've made along the way, we were sad to say goodbye to Rudy and Elisa. 

As with many of the cities we've visited, we enjoyed some sights of beautiful Ferrara from our saddles one last time through the more quiet of morning.

Though looking al fresco (even in real life), these stones are not painted. Each is cut to a point. It's quite an effect. 

Today's route took us back to the Po River along a mostly car-free and paved route. The kilometers went by and, in many ways, it felt like we were traveling through countryside resembling the Skagit delta. Very much green now that we are closer to the Adriatic. And the wisterias in this part of the world have been increasing in bloom every day for the past week, a sight to behold and much larger than ours at home. 


Somewhere along the Po River. 
A trait that we've noticed is that Italian men and women, especially the older ones, walk with either one or both hands behind their backs. After a day of museum-ing, young or old, it makes total sense, and Alaine and I now pace this way quite regularly when taking in the sights. This gentleman, however, was the first that we've seen cycling with one hand behind the back. 

This crop of trees is prominent along the river banks. A type of Popelar? We have yet to learn...

Just like back in Chique Terre, we came upon a road closed area. There wasn't a lot of forewarning about the road being closed (just like Cinque Terre) but it was Saturday and no one was working (unlike Cinque Terre) so we just did what we could tell some the other riders did...

and snuck through...

mostly without falling down.

What began as a hazy though sunny day (so not super great for vista photos) grew overcast, and by the end of our 80 kilometers--downright threatening. Soon after we'd found shelter in a room/hotel above a pizzeria, it unleashed great amounts of rain through strong wind. We count it as our luck still holding, as we only got wet going to and from our trips down and out to connect to Wifi near the restaurant. And while the weather didn't inspire us to go out to explore any of the Delta Po, the next day was loads better, so we don't  count today as a day of rain, just like Mantova. We are still, essentially, at just 3 days of cycling in rain. 

The weather also afforded us a chance to catch up on laundry.




 

17 April 2015

Nonna Lidia, or: The kindness of strangers -- 17 Aprile

The way his car rolls to a stop he seems to be in a hurry and we hasten to cross the street behind him. But instead of moving on he gets out of his car and comes around and greets us. First in Italian, then in German, which is a tad easier for both of us. What he shared, I don't exactly know for sure. But, after we explained we were from Stati Uniti, he did mention he'd spent time in the states. He is in a rush--his car and us in the middle of the intersection. But he clearly wants to welcome us to the small town of perhaps one hundred families, and shakes our hands before moving off.

Moments later, We have picked a spot at the trailhead to lean our bodies and bikes and consume our simple lunch bought from the local grocer and fruit seller of cheese and bread and a couple apples. But a voice calls out from across the street. She's speaking to us and walking across the street. She is old and short in stature but not hunched, and moves slowly toward us still speaking. Her hair is thick and white and sensibly short. And she is in slippers. The salt and pepper brows arch over kind dark eyes that remind me of my grandfather.

She is close now and intent on conveying her subject. But out paltry Italian is not helping until, finally, tavola and sedia. Giardino. Table and chair. Garden. She tells us her age-- 84? 94? (The numbers past 50 are difficult.) She gets through to us that she is a mama, a Nonna, and another Nonna...great grandmother. Alaine "mi chiamos" her name and mine, "E tu?" Alaine asks and then asks if that is the correct way to ask. It is not the formal way but the woman adamantly gestures that formality is to be disregarded--we are friends and her name is Lidia. 

She beckons us to follow her, and we do-- to her door, down her hallway, out a backdoor to her garden area, where she resets her plastic chairs, finds a rag to wipe the morning's rain from the table and bench, picks and places two small white flowers, of some small bulb type, on the table.  Alaine and she "talk" of plant varieties-- Alaine understands geranium, rose, Rosemary, calla Lilly. Lidia is giving small kisses to Alaine's cheeks as I pull out our lunch. Then Lidia says prego and returns to her home. 

We eat quickly and then knock on her door to pass through to the front and street and our bikes waiting at the trailhead. We have for her one of our bookmarks with photos of Bellingham Bay, our home, us. She is touched and shows us similar paper mementos on her hallway wall, and then points us into her living room to show us photos of loved ones, living and dead. Talk of the dead brings tears to her eyes and she holds onto Alaine's hand tightly. But then she turns to the array of oversized portraits of babies on the opposite wall and the sadness eases away.

Our goodbye is a mix of nods and grazies and smiles and holding on, with more kisses, for both of us. And another photo.We were sad to leave Lidia alone, but as we readied our bikes, we heard, "Lidia!" and turned to see a neighbor cycle from the intersection, obviously checking to see how our new-found Nonna was. 






16 April 2015

art and history in Montova - 15 & 16 Aprile

We had scheduled a rest day while in Mantova and took advantage of the city, bordered by three man-made lakes (as fortification back in the day), to enjoy the sights. We cycled the path around the lakes, cycled and walked the rumblly, pave'd city streets and narrow alleys along with the rest of the population. So many cyclists laden with baskets and children and, even, stilettos!

We also took the opportunity to tour the Ducal Palace--the largest residence in Italy, evidently, after the Vatican, home of the Gonzaga family-- the Dukes of Mantova (and the Este relations) from the 14th to 17th centuries. We poked around the cathedral and the Basilica di Sant'Andrea, church of Saint Barbara... Seeing the art and craftsmanship that went into building and decorating such places was quite amazing. Also amazing is that so much is gone, or only recently been revealed and restored.