Up up up from Lucca to sanctuary up high in Lusuolo- Sunday, 12 Aprile

After we left the river valley, Paul's route had us avoiding traffic to get us back to the coast for a quick spell before returning inland again-- our destination was to be Sarzana, where we thought to camp. Sounds simple enough, even flat (river, valley, coast...) but not for us. Our route instead took us to the outskirts of Lucca where we joined what appeared to be s Sunday cyclists hill climbing training route.

I think it was a probably about the steepest few ascents we've had so far. We topped out on an even more high, more off-route road (as we didn't see any other cyclists there), at the quiet, tight-cornered village of Piazzano, then dropped down to meet up again with the kitted cyclists (teams of them at times), only to climb yet again to Montemagno, with a beautiful overlook and a major switchback-y road dropping us down fast (faster for the fasties). 

Too much huffing and puffing to get to the top for photos, but a breather in Piazzano.

Thankfully, we do not have to climb the Appenines... Just its flanks, late today and tomorrow.

Before reaching Sarzana, we didn't feel like detouring to the campground, not certain if it'd be open, so we pushed on through cool oldtown Sarzana, then its less cool outskirts, hoping to find a sign for an ostello or pension or room or a campground.

Around then, I got my first flat...thankfully just before a good pullout.

But... No places to stay in the villages we passed through, so we just kept on the planned route (less distance for tomorrow) and felt some hope when we saw an "agritourismo" sign pointing in the direction we were going...and climbing. It was a good outcome to an experiment in leaving things to chance and goodwill, as after we got to near the top of several steep switchbacks, we pulled our nerve to walk up the gravel road to knock on a door...unsure. The lady who answered knew French, so I was  able to communicate our hope. She was not the "agritourismo" place, but she called for "Valentina!" aross the way and helped communicate our last-minute, late (it was after 7) hope for a room or a place to pitch our tent. What we got instead was rustic luxury and friendliness. Amazing! And even unexpected breakfast!

Rooms with a view