From sea to high hilltops to Setta-Revecca-Anzo, Framura -- Tuesday, 7Aprile

If you are high enough above the sea, it is said you can see the curvature of the earth. I think, being at sixhundredsomthing meters above the Mediterraneo, we were able to witness this occurrence. That, or else it was the hypoxia setting in. But I'm getting ahead of myself.

Today felt like having a coach who doesn't like you, or likes you so much he thinks you're up for a challenge. The morning started out well enough. It was sunny (again!) and we broke camp early, had a our breakfast of the rest of last night's bread, cheese, jam, some juice we'd bought the night before, plus even a coffee from the campground "bar." And we were in the saddle by 8:30 heading from the northwesterly outskirts into central downtown Rapallo where it sits on the small gulf inland of the famed Portofino on the Liguruan Sea. 

When the first hill came as we headed north east from town, but it wasn't too bad. It was like all the other first-thing-in-the-morning hills--doable--and not like the other bastards that can show up (what? not more hill?) in the afternoon when the mind and body have decided that a beverage and a chair overlooking the sea is decidedly better than grunting up another 500 meters. 

But up we went. 

And then back down to, Chiavari, another seaside city...

Some coolness at the further outskirts of Sestri Levante cheering us along.

Today, the aforementioned coach, being in an ornery mood, kept asking for more. "Give me ten more meters!" And then, "Give me ten more!"  And every time we thought  we were close to the top, "What are you looking at? Give me another ten!"

On and on it went. Relentless. It became comical when we came to a fork in the road. Which way? Up of course. Or a hairpin turn... To see more up. 

In the small town of Piazza we'd thought we'd reached the crest and even snuck in a break (thinking the coach wasn't looking) for a celebratory glass of wine. 

But that damn coach saw all along and knew what was in store... The high pass yet to be reached at some 615 meters. Maybe that doesn't sound so high, but when total accumulated climbing is nearly 3 times as much... It's a big number!

The result that damn coach was looking for? A day of cycling nearly a thousand of meters above the sea--and with some stretches a solid few miles. Thankfully today was along  the quiet, post Pasquale reveries, Via Aurelia (the busy, much more direct, autostrada was far below)--with views at every turn. Granted, the grade of the climbs didn't always allow us to stop to marvel or take photos, but we enjoyed nonetheless. 

Sprinkle the collapsing terrace with a town and requisite church here and there and--belissimo.

We even had a northerly view at the saddle of our climb to see some of the Italian Alps!

This huge cactus, as we we were in the downhill, made Alaine come to a fast stop.

When we did finally make it to our destination, a hostel in Anzo (or Setta, or some named switchback of a community of Framura) that Alaine had found during our research when we'd mapped to stop north of the Cinque Terra, with two charming managers, Marina and Piergiorgio, she'd communicated with, plus a lawned patio with chairs overlooking the sea, we were pretty darn happy, though still marveling at the amount of effort to get here. The spent feeling was one of satisfaction mixed with fatigue. 

Piergiorgio and Marina

Later, we enjoyed  our first true Italian meal, selections bought from a local alimentari -- Gastonomia Salumeria Enrica - Le Cose Buone (to which we would return an hour later for secundo dinner--we were hungry). 

Tomorrow, as I always say, there will undoubtedly be hills, but I think the coach will be taking the day off and maybe the cycling will be a little less challenging. Either way, bring it on.